Hi Debra, Harris, Ken and Larry

I have been reading the posts re: water invasion.
Nothing has been mentioned about the bow cock-pit overboard-drain plumbing. I also added some other FYI's about water inside of the boat.

My 1980 Baba 30 has Port and Starbd 1.5" drains that join at a T (sea chest)connection at a bronze thru-hull on starbd (under fwd stb corner of V Berth). They are the same size as the main cockpit overboards aft. Are these not in place on earlier Baba's or just ineffective?

When I wash down the boat I make certain to power spray water into these drains to clear any salt and debris. I check by watching for the water to exit the thru-hull on the stbd waterline.

Appreciate the mentioning of the rebedding of hardware fixtures that have been in place for 27+ years.

 I would not advise keeping an anchor in the upper bilge as I had to repair the crushed drain (that leads from the chain locker via the upper to the lower bilge under the fuel tank and engine compartment). The is where the PO had kept his reserve anchor which caused for this repair. Better make able chocks and tie downs if this is your only option.
 Unless you are ready to pull the fuel tank, steam clean it and resurface the exterior with cold galvanizing or epoxy ( the chain locker drain runs on the lower stbd edge of the fuel tank compartment and exits under the engine pan). The fuel tank is not as heavy as it looks. Easier to lift with inspection plate off- good hand hold. More information if any desire on this refit. There has been a lot of discussion already about the topic.
I was dismayed at the 1/2 inch layer of goo and fine grit that lined the bottom of the tank, with only 3/8" clearance for the supply tube off the bottom, my filters were definitely in harm's way.

Back to the bow, be sure to check the bow sprit for delamination under the push-pit platform (where it inconveniently occurs).
When removing the platform,Label the thru bolts for each specific location that secure the
platform to the bow-sprit. I found that Ta Shing used different length bolts along this run (;-((
 I removed degraded epoxy from between the laminations, using a fine hacksaw blade & 1" dia dremel cutting disc and re-epoxyed the seams and barrier coated to prevent water incursion. The surveyor recommended to paint over to reduce UV degradation of the epoxy. I used a high volumne UV varnish. Will have to reapply this year (after 2 Years). Vanity is labor intensive.

Another trick, when renewing the rudder and shaft gland packing, use the low temperature on a heat gun sparingly to warm up the old packing. The warmed bronze and packing will then separate easily.(;-)) I layer traditonal courses with a filling of the teflon.
Yes, my mind has been in the bilge, my 5'2" height is a advantage for this activity (Thank heaven for NPR radio). Now off to wire and install a Rule 2000 with separate foot switch and 3-way selector control.

Be sure to have fun messing around on your boats.
Pam Hooper
Pamarno, 1980 #88
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Harris Gabel" <harris_gabel@HOTMAIL.COM>

> Debby and Larry,
>
> I experienced the same problem on the "Baja Bash," the trip from Cabo to San
> Diego. We had seas over the bow for most of the trip.
>
> I discovered water leaking under the V berth and then onto to the cabin
> floor. This problem made a nasty trip even nastier, as I had to pump water
> out of the space below the V berth on a regular basis.
>
> The set-up on my boat is the same as on yours. I have made several changes
> to try to alleviate the problem:
> 1. Rebeded the hawse pipe, which was leaking.
>
>
> 2. The bottom of the anchor locker on the port side covers a gap between
> the floor of the anchor locker and the forward bulkhead of the space below
> the V berth. Water leaks into the gap and then into the V berth.
>
> First I opened the floor of the anchor locker,pulled out all the wet
> material that had been sitting in this gap and then dried the space.
>
> Then I sealed the floor of the port side of anchor locker with Sikaflex.
> (I think epoxy, as suggested by Shane, might have have been a better choice,
> and I will consider epoxy if I need to re-do this part in the future.)
>
> The next step was to seal the hole in the bulkhead under the forward part of
> the V berth with Sikaflex. This is the hole through which passes the hose
> connecting the scuppers for the bow well with the thru-hull on the starboard
> side. I put a separate small drain hose into the space and ending in the
> space below the V berth. I hope that, if any water leaks from the floor of
> the anchor locker into the space, I will see it in the clear hose. I corked
> the end of the hose, so I can drain the space, if need be, into a jug.
>
> I cannot vouch for how well any of this will actually work, since I have not
> had to pound directly into heavy seas into seas since I made these changes.
> But I have not had problems with water below the anchor locker in the mild
> Summer conditions in Southern California, where the the bow well fills only
> occasionally.
>
>
> Harris Gabel
> s/v Always Lucky
> Baba 30
> 1979
>
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Received on Thu Apr 26 10:30:24 2007