I understand that the recommended procedure is to remove the old screw, pour
a squirt of CPES. Let it cure for a few hours. Then stuff in laminating
epoxy, possibly mixed with chopped bits of fiberglass. Let that cure. Use a
tapered bit with a countersink collar to slightly deepen the hole for the
screw. This will permit you to provide enough surface for the bung to bond.
Now put a bit of caulking on the tip of the screw and insert screw.
Use a wood glue to insert the bungs. Something like Titebond II Waterproof
works well.
I worry about the notion of using excess epoxy to caulk the screw and the
bung. It will make it nearly impossible to remove the screw at a later date.

This is a bit more complicated than just pouring in epoxy and then putting
in the screw. But it retains some flexibility.
regards,
Harvey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Cassano" <rcassano@optonline.net>
To: <baba-l@ballreich.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Baba-L] teak decks

> Harvey,
>
> Why the breaker tape before applying the caulk? If the current trend is to
> attach the teak deck straking to the fiberglass deck with epoxy then
> shouldn't we just put in as much flexible caulk as possible and not worry
> about it gluing to the fiberglass deck under the teak? I would think the
> more caulk you pump in the more waterproof the deck should be.
>
> I have lots of screws that popped the bungs out. Is the correct fix to
> pull the screw and inject epoxy into the old screw hole and replace the
> screw with new bung? This should seal the screw hole from moisture
> intruding into the deck core. I've been putting this job off for a long
> time as I'm not sure what the correct process is for repair. It seems the
> Smith's CPES product might work here(?)
>
> Rich Cassano
>
> Harvey J. Karten wrote:
>> Tom's comments are always worth attending to.
>> The major rationale for caulking is to prevent water from getting under
>> the teak decks, and then down in past all those thousands of screws, to
>> malevolently rot the core of your decks. Caulking is supposed to prevent
>> that from happening. But that would truly require that the teak is
>> otherwise fully secured to the underlying fiberglass deck. After 25-30
>> years, it probably ain't the case. It's the caulking between the back of
>> the teak straking and the fiberglass that is often most in need of
>> replacement. But it's impossible to do that unless you remove all the
>> teak and start over. Hence the current trend to attach the teak deck
>> straking to the fiberglass deck with epoxy. The probability of preventing
>> any water from getting under the teak is probably pretty low.
>>
>> So, the critical thing is to make sure that the screws are properly
>> bedded. This is a much nastier job than caulking. The other choice is to
>> live in a part of the world where it hardly ever rains, and the
>> temperature stays close to the mean so there is minimal expansion and
>> contraction. (Oh, I forgot - also where servants provide you with shade,
>> margaritas are free, and somebody else does all the boat maintenance).
>> regards,
>> Harvey
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Beard" <tom16@wavecable.com>
>> To: <baba-l@ballreich.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 9:38 AM
>> Subject: RE: [Baba-L] teak decks
>>
>>
>>> My thoughts are a little different on the re-caulking job. the deck
>>> calking
>>> is cosmetic. It serves no other purpose. I have found in the past that
>>> calking separates from the adjoining wood in scattered areas; it is not
>>> universal. For anyone who has to tried to remove it, they found that the
>>> calking is nearly indestructible. This is one reason some are
>>> recommending
>>> the Fein Multimaster. My solution over the years is to use Liquid Life
>>> Calk
>>> and run it into the gaps. Following a light sanding and a few days
>>> weathering of teak and seam, the repair is unseen. If it is detectable,
>>> I
>>> can ignore it in favor of watching my new navigation screen or other
>>> gadgets
>>> that I use the money for instead, which means more to me than perfect
>>> cosmetics on the deck. This was my solution for younger decks--I'm now
>>> sure
>>> how quarter-century plus decks look that have a lot of tropical time on
>>> them. Ours happens to be almost without flaws--knock on teak!
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> MOONSHADOW
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>> http://www.ballreich.net/hypermail/baba-l/faq.html
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
>
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Received on Thu Mar 15 21:30:39 2007