Hi Rick,
Delighted if you want to do that.
regards,
Harvey

At 12:49 PM 3/15/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Great info Harvey, mind if I enter this into the Baba BBS?
>
>Rick Beddoe
>s/v Soņadora, 1978 Baba 30
>Minneapolis, MN
>http://sail2live.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-baba-l@ballreich.net [mailto:owner-baba-l@ballreich.net] On
>Behalf Of Harvey J. Karten
>Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 11:58 AM
>To: baba-l@ballreich.net
>Subject: Re: [Baba-L] teak decks
>
>Caulking is a lousy job, but not technically demanding.
>1) Using a Fein Multimaster with a caulking remover blade (an extra $50),
>take out the caulking
>2) Use the Fein with the fine grain grouting disk, and clean the side walls
>down to the bare wood.
>3) Check uniformity of depth
>4) Wash all seams with acetone
>5) Using small squeeze bottle with pointed tip, spray liberal amounts of
>Smith's CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy) into all the seams
>6) Put breaker tape into the bottom (optional - some say it is vital, but
>several professionals I spoke with say that if you use a good quality
>flexible caulking compound, and the groove is deep enough, it isn't really
>needed)
>7) Tape all seams with liberal amounts of blue or yellow or green tape (use
>only 3M). Have lots of disposable latex gloves, old pants and shirt. Get a
>good set of knee pads. A few quarts of acetone and rags to clean up areas
>where it unintentionally spreads.
>8) Using a professional caulking gun (only a few dollars more than the
>crummy ones) and about 2 dozen tubes of TDS 440, caulk in 3-4 foot stretchs
>a series of parallel seams. Suggest that you start with the side decks and
>work your way forward.
>9) Caulking is easier than it seems (no pun intended). Draw the angled tip
>towards you with pressure to fill the seam to overflow. Use a small plastic
>spatula for force the material deeply into seam and extrude any bubbles.
>Immediately remove tape from that part of the job. The caulking should be
>"proud" (stick up slightly above the deck).
>10) Move on to the next section of deck.
>11) Quit for a rest every 30 to 40 minutes. Don't try to do it all in one
>day.
>The tape must be removed within 2-4 minutes after caulking with TDS.
>Otherwise you have to wait until it cures for 48 hours. If you remove tape
>after 5 minutes, it tends to lift the "skin" and leaves a hollow in the
>caulking.
>
>After curing and setting for about 3 days to a week, take a single edge
>razor blade and shave the "proud" caulking flat. You can lightly sand the
>surface.
>If well done, it should last 10-15 years.
>
>The total cost is well under $600, including the Fein Multimaster and blade
>(ca. $300 total), blue tape, acetone and caulking ( about $240 for 24
>tubes). Doesn't include beer.
>
>The cheapest estimate I got for the job was about $3,000. One estimate was
>$7,000.
>Harvey
>Night Heron,
>Tayana 37, Hull #84 1977
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Richard B. Emerson" <pavilion@pinefields.com>
>To: <baba-l@ballreich.net>
>Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 9:13 AM
>Subject: Re: [Baba-L] teak decks
>
>
> > Er, BTDT with the job being done by a pro (Mike Nordhoff, Rock Hall, MD -
> > does excellent work) and the bill would have bought more than one of these
>
> > puppies. At lot more than one or two... Oh my!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Rick Emerson
> >
> > Chuck Sawyer wrote:
> >> That is rather pricy $760 +-, If I could afford to buy that tool I could
> >> probably just pay some pros to re-caulk the deck. ;-)
> >>
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------
>Baba Panda and Tashiba Owners Mailing List --
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Harvey J. Karten, M.D.
Distinguished Professor, UCSD
Dept. of Neurosciences
Basis Sciences Building, Rm. 3003/3009
La Jolla, CA 92093-0608
(858) 534-4938
(858) 534-6602 - fax

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Received on Thu Mar 15 11:17:58 2007