Great info Harvey, mind if I enter this into the Baba BBS?

Rick Beddoe
s/v Soņadora, 1978 Baba 30
Minneapolis, MN
http://sail2live.com

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-baba-l@ballreich.net [mailto:owner-baba-l@ballreich.net] On
Behalf Of Harvey J. Karten
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 11:58 AM
To: baba-l@ballreich.net
Subject: Re: [Baba-L] teak decks

Caulking is a lousy job, but not technically demanding.
1) Using a Fein Multimaster with a caulking remover blade (an extra $50),
take out the caulking
2) Use the Fein with the fine grain grouting disk, and clean the side walls
down to the bare wood.
3) Check uniformity of depth
4) Wash all seams with acetone
5) Using small squeeze bottle with pointed tip, spray liberal amounts of
Smith's CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy) into all the seams
6) Put breaker tape into the bottom (optional - some say it is vital, but
several professionals I spoke with say that if you use a good quality
flexible caulking compound, and the groove is deep enough, it isn't really
needed)
7) Tape all seams with liberal amounts of blue or yellow or green tape (use
only 3M). Have lots of disposable latex gloves, old pants and shirt. Get a
good set of knee pads. A few quarts of acetone and rags to clean up areas
where it unintentionally spreads.
8) Using a professional caulking gun (only a few dollars more than the
crummy ones) and about 2 dozen tubes of TDS 440, caulk in 3-4 foot stretchs
a series of parallel seams. Suggest that you start with the side decks and
work your way forward.
9) Caulking is easier than it seems (no pun intended). Draw the angled tip
towards you with pressure to fill the seam to overflow. Use a small plastic
spatula for force the material deeply into seam and extrude any bubbles.
Immediately remove tape from that part of the job. The caulking should be
"proud" (stick up slightly above the deck).
10) Move on to the next section of deck.
11) Quit for a rest every 30 to 40 minutes. Don't try to do it all in one
day.
The tape must be removed within 2-4 minutes after caulking with TDS.
Otherwise you have to wait until it cures for 48 hours. If you remove tape
after 5 minutes, it tends to lift the "skin" and leaves a hollow in the
caulking.

After curing and setting for about 3 days to a week, take a single edge
razor blade and shave the "proud" caulking flat. You can lightly sand the
surface.
If well done, it should last 10-15 years.

The total cost is well under $600, including the Fein Multimaster and blade
(ca. $300 total), blue tape, acetone and caulking ( about $240 for 24
tubes). Doesn't include beer.

The cheapest estimate I got for the job was about $3,000. One estimate was
$7,000.
Harvey
Night Heron,
Tayana 37, Hull #84 1977

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard B. Emerson" <pavilion@pinefields.com>
To: <baba-l@ballreich.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Baba-L] teak decks

> Er, BTDT with the job being done by a pro (Mike Nordhoff, Rock Hall, MD -
> does excellent work) and the bill would have bought more than one of these

> puppies. At lot more than one or two... Oh my!
>
> Cheers,
> Rick Emerson
>
> Chuck Sawyer wrote:
>> That is rather pricy $760 +-, If I could afford to buy that tool I could
>> probably just pay some pros to re-caulk the deck. ;-)
>>
>
>
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Received on Thu Mar 15 10:51:22 2007