And. just one more thought, take the main engine out of the water heater
jacket completely, but replace it with the circulating water from your gen
set, if you have one. The thoughts here are that the gen set will be run
more then the main engine. But then one could really valve the whole thing
together to have either main engine or gen set., and I opted just to keep it
simple and put the gen set only. Speaking of water heaters I replaced mine 2
years ago with an Atlantic Marine unit that was smaller then the Seaward
stock unit and works fine; however, I needed to add a 3-way valve to the
cold water input to allow quick drain in the even I need to replace the
element.

 

Dave

S/V Bella

Ensenada, BC, Mexico

 

  _____

From: Michael Kramer [mailto:sv_cambria@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 10:39 AM
To: baba net
Subject: [Baba-L] Water heater and engine

 

 

"I decided to pressure test the fresh water system and there is a slight
leak. Determining that it could be almost anywhere, I decided to
dis-connect the water heater and just cut it out of the fresh water system
completely. The pressure leak went away and I can now run my engine at
2400 rpm and the temp gauge stays at 180 - yea again!"

 

We had a similar problem on Cambria with a Volvo MD 21B and a water heater
that was above the engine reservoir and overflow tank. We put in a manifold
which bypasssed the water heater and the engine would then work fine. Latedr
we just removed the water heater. Down here, we don't miss it - we want a
water cooler.

 

Michael & Elizabeth

S/V Cambria

Sonora, MX

 

  _____

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Received on Thu Mar 30 14:12:13 2006