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Alan Sugarman wrote:
> According to the installation drawing, the holding tank has a standard
> vent.
> Then the SweetTank module is installed and has a bubbler/aerator that
> goes to the bottom of the tank.
> So, I do not understand why the SweetTank needs to run all the time
> since the air vent is always there.
Because the vent doesn't supply incoming air to the bottom of the tank
to aerate the contents...it's only the "escape route" for the air
produced by the aerator.
> The SweetTank aerator is an add-on. So, how do the CONTENTS know
> whether or not the aeration tube is hooked to a pump or not.
They know whether they're being oxygenated or not...and it's air being
produced by the the pump that oxygenates the contents. But only when the
pump is on. If the pump isn't running, the tank isn't being aerated. And
when the tank isn't aerated, the contents turn anaerobic.
Go to page 2 of the instructions and read what's under
"OPERATION"...you'll see that it can be left off for up to a few days,
PROVIDED that no new waste is added. But how long depends on
temperature, 'cuz bacterial activity is much higher in warm temps than
in cool. A tank can turn anaerobic in a day on a boat sitting in the sun
in the summer...could remain aerobic for up to a week in early spring
and late fall.
And there's another issue you may have missed when you read the
instructions: "If power is left off for extended periods, it is
recommended that the air tube be removed and rinsed to remove sediment
build-up that may block the free flow of air." That can be a lot of
very unpleasant maintenance.
> I am trying to install an adeqaute vent line, and this is just a helper
> in case the vent is not adequate.
At a cost of about $200, it's a VERY expensive "helper!" If the tank
vent can supply enough oxygen, you don't need it...if it can't, it needs
to run continuously to prevent the contents from turning anerobic.
> Anyway, if it stinks when I turn it back on, then I will turn it off.
Then you might as well not install it....'Cuz it has to run to work.
Allowed to run long enough, it will "recover" a tank that's turned
anaerobic, but it does take hours...starting off VERY ripe, gradually
diminishing.
> Do you know what the current draw is??
Less than one amp.
> Anyway, I figure it cannot hurt - except for the cost. But, I also
> figure it is a lot easier to install in a a new tank than do it later.
Depending upon where the tank will go, and how you plan to run the vent
(I'll be glad to help you work that out), I don't think you need it.
Ya know...There is a very viable alternative to installing a holding
tank at all: The Chesapeake Bay is NOT "no discharge"...there are only 2
very small NDZ on it--Herring Bay and the Northern Coastal Bay (see
http://www.dnr.state.md.us/boating/pumpout/ndz.pdf)--the discharge of
treated waste from a CG certified Type I MSD is legal everywhere else on
the Bay. You might consider installing a Lectra/San or PuraSan
http://www.raritaneng.com/products/waste_treatment/index.html ...the
discharge from 'em is cleaner than that from most sewage treatment
plants, which is where holding tank contents go to be treated and dumped
into the Bay. The power consumption looks a little scary...till you
realize that it only translates into less than 10 amps/day/person, which
any boat that has adequate battery resources can easily handle. And it
only has to run for 2 minutes following each flush. The only real issue
may be finding space for it...'cuz it needs far less than a decent size
tank, but the shape may be a problem on a Baba.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=40&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books/detail-books.htm?fno=0&sku=90&cat=1304
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Received on Tue Jan 03 09:50:07 2006
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