This comes from a knowledge person on the Tayana list. It is pertinent to
our discussion on brightwork finishes.
--Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Hampel
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 9:45 AM
To: Tayana
Subject: Re: [tayana] Cetol, Bristol, HoneyTeak?

I use Honey teak as I prefer a long lasting high quality varnish
look-alike. My present HT job is approaching 6 years.
Honey teak is a 2 part base covered with a 2 part clear and requires only a
quick scuff with a scotchbrite pad and a quick recoat with the clear every
12-18 months. The stuff is EXPENSIVE.

The HT manufacturer recommends a yearly overcoat with the catalyzed clear;
but, I simply double coat at 2 year intervals and simply 'power-buff' in the
in-between years when I power-buff my gelcoat. If you want a fanatic's
'museum grade' finish that would make a Hinckley blush with envy .... lay on
the normal schedule with an extra clear top coat, then sand with 800 wet &
dry to get it FLAT, then power buff ..... will look like glass or the very
best varnish job you've ever seen. If you want the brightwork to have a
brilliant and glowing irridescent 'patina' then hand rub with rotten stone/
water, then power buff. If you have an airbush .........
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Both Honey Teak and Bristol Finish need to be applied with very heavy base
coats ... or you risk premature failure by UV degradation. Once the base is
heavily laid-on it seems to last and last and last. Honey Teak is probably
the most expensive for first cost but after 6 years that cost is well
amortized and the brightwork is still intact. If you use honey teak Id
suggest that you apply 3 base coats and 3 top coats to insure against
premature failure, and probably less 'spot repair' later on. 3 + 3 coats
will result in a much darker 'hue' but that color shift will become lighter
and lighter over time. Honey teak orginally goes on with a deep amber hue
but will fade to a varnish hue in a few months. Since HT is a catalyzed
paint system, you can put on 3 -4 coats in a single day. As with all
'orphan' paint systems HT require a special technique to 'get it right' - I
use soft 1 inch 'artists' brushes and 'flow' the stuff on thickly. If you
put it on too thin, it will fail. If you need to remove it, a heavy thick
paste type remover will do the job.

Honey Teak is for TEAK only .... Shouldn't be applied over Iroko, Ipe, etc.

My present HT job is now approaching 6 years with some minor repairs ....
you can see what it looks like on the Tayana FTP site under the "anchor
Riding sail" entry. What you will see in the Pics is quite 'dull' as its in
sore need of a clear maintenance coat ... then the brilliance will be many
times more than what you see in the pics.

Honey Teak = www.signaturefinish.com ...you buy it direct.


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Received on Wed Aug 17 06:30:59 2005