To throw a different perspective in the mix. I'm currently using a heat gun
to strip the varnish, yes it really works and works well, but I'm apply teak
oil instead of varnish or any other product. Did the cabin overlay, port
cap rail, dorads, last season, and am now working on the starboard caprail.
I have to oil several times a season, but its really easy to do! I have a
full boat cover for the winter months.

Jim
s/v Bordeaux
Baba35
Blaine, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Sugarman [mailto:sugarman # sugarlaw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 8:51 AM
To: Baba, Panda and Tashiba
Subject: Re: [baba] Cetol, Bristol, HoneyTeak?

At 11:04 AM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
>Everybody talks about their annual "scuff and coat" with the 2 part
>finishes. There's really not that much more to do with properly applied
>varnish. (Maybe two coats instead of one.) I can see how varnish might not
>do well in the tropics. If (when) we go there, we'll probably do a good
>solid varnish job and then paint over that. Then when (if) we come back,
>we'll bring out the heat gun, strip the whole thing off, and bring her
>back to bright.
>
>That's the plan anyway. ;-)
>
>Cindy

[Well, Cindy varnishes because she has so much time on her hands!!!]

Another varnish strategy is, at least for the car rail and big areas, is to
strip each year with a heat gun on low and a good sharp scraper. So, then
you take care of scrapes and nicks and seams etc.

If the varnish has not degraded, then the underlying teak is still sealed
and the grain should be filled.
At this state, you are really at a state of a few coats of sealer and two
coats of varnish sanded down.
So, just sand with 220/

So, then, one can lay on two or three coats of varnish, and it will look
just fiine.

The key is to not let the varnish degrade to the point of flaking and heavy
crazing.
*********************
"Framboise"
Port Annapolis Marina
Baba 30-xls, Hull No. 227.



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Received on Wed Aug 17 09:10:59 2005