What she said and what she said!

At the very least, two pieces of 3/4" water hose, one Forespar vented
loop, and four hose clamps will get the job done long enough to avoid
the basic risk. No joke, if a siphon should form while you're away from
the boat and the water level is above the bowl rim, water will continue
to come in until, if you're away way long enough, the boat will sink.
Again, no jokes here.

Finding the water level inside the boat is very easy. Put a piece of
clear water hose on the head raw water inlet and hold it up while
opening the inlet (hint: use at least 2' of hose for this experiment).
With the other end of the hose open (that lets air out), water will rise
to the same level as it is outside the boat. In our case, the level is
about 1-2" above the shelf under the sink in the head. Armed with that
information, it'll be very easy to see if the rim of the toilet bowl is
too low or not. When mounting a vented loop (for the head or anything
else), it should be 10-12" above the "at rest" water level to allow for
heeling raising the water level (more of an issue with loops near the
"edges" than amidships).

Most of the wet/dry "switches" I've met are little more than
funny-looking cams with nothing much to hold them in any one position.
Betting that one of these things will stay in "dry" at all times is
...ah... unwise.

Insurance is the other thing Cindy mentioned. It's a safe bet that if
you call up your insurer to report a loss, a flooded boat due to an
overflowing head, they will not be likely to pay up no questions asked.
In fact, I have a strong suspicion knowing there's a problem like this
vent and doing nothing about it may leave you uninsured in the event the
boat is flooded.

Cheers,
Rick

cindy@ballreich.net wrote:
> [...]It's not that difficult of a job and your insurance policy may
> have occasion to thank your for it.
>

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Received on Tue Jun 12 05:34:25 2007