Opps!

I havent had my coffee yet!

Before the addition of Grand Mariner to the tea, Install the other opposing frame mouldings and reinstall in the hatch openings. Use tooth picks or fine slivers of teak and a dap of carpenters glue, for filling in the enlarged hinge screw holes if necessary.
 Then Celebrate the warm evenings of summer without bugs in your wine glass or tea or otters in your lockers. (to think I also like shrimp and mussels-pu, many a boat house moorage are visited by these rascals who love the welcome sign of open vents and ports).
Pam Hooper
Pamarno
-------------- Original message --------------
From: pamarno@comcast.net

Jim
Thank you for sharing your boat time with me regarding the sewing question. I have a old portable singer slant foot that was used in a Jr High home economics class,metal gears and case paid $14 @ good will). Have been putting off the expense of buying an industrial machine with the same concern for space. Appreciated the advice regarding the 30 mil glass and Black zippers and longer machine arm. The Tenara thread is a good investment considering the labor one invests in creating.

I will add screens to this post.
Yes take good care of the original port light screens if you are lucky enough to have them. Otherwise think template for light weight window plastic oval framing to sandwich screen and screw together and press into port opening.

In Bellingham, we have a marvelous old family owned hardware store that had survived Ernest, Home Base, Home Depot and Lowes competition.
It is said by the locals: "If you can"t get it at Hardware Sales, it hasn't been invented yet!" this is my source for the bronze mesh offered in two deniers, one which is identical to Pamarno's finer original bronze cloth. Great for sculpture too.
Screens keep out river/sea otters and neighboring yacht cats in my hood. during the rare warm months we need open hatches.
 I will be renewing the hatch screens with sold by the foot bronze screening, There are also options of aluminum and fibreglas. I haven't actually measured for this project, It is possible that the available width of screening off the roll, will be close to the length of the hatch inside perimeters in the main cabin.
Prepare a Liter container of your favorite ice tea flavor (I like iced Chai) or coffee and take sips as you proceed through this project.
Project list to collect.
Choice of replacement screening
Tape measure, utility knife, wide flat putty knife, length of wood greater than width of screen frame, a weight,vinegar, watco oil, toothbrush, scotch gard type pad, non skid rubber shelf liner or other similar working surface, small drill bit (dremel?), brads or small wood screws, screwdriver and tooth picks.
Start with one of the smaller screens such as the one in the foe'scle hatch.
 The original screens are back stopped with teak mouldings. I gently remove the screens from the hatch openings. Then on a padded surface with non-skid shelf liner, I place the side -up that has the framing for the screen.
 I patiently remove the framing/moulding by prying off with wide stiff putty knife as they just tacked in with brads. Running a fine knife along the edges to cut through the old soil and salt helps. Applying a bead of vinegar will dissove the crusted salt and soil to help ease the moulding away from its long time neighbour. At this time you will discover if your screens were made on a Friday in the TaShing yard. (;-)
SIPP
(~)be sure to label(with ball point pen on back side of moulding at corners) for re-installation, unless you have time for puzzles.
 Since I am replacing old screen, I use the old broken screening as leverage by gently pulling upward and levering with the wide putty knife at the same time, if the moulding is reluctant.
 SIPPP
This is the same kind of repair for old wood screen doors in the past century. I have an circa 1900 Victorian farm house and have worked with screened areas of 28"x 48". I scour with a scotch brite type pad or toothbrush and oil the exposed teak at this time.
SIPPP
Fibreglass screen can be stopped in and trimmed with a utility blade after install on all four sides.
If the brads are reluctant, one can sever them in half with a fine chisel ( the protuding ends
 can be left as additional "tacking") and the new brads are relocated to another spot along the moulding for reinstall (predrill with slightly smaller diameter wood bit for non-split insurance). To find teak moulding of the same quality and measure is difficult if the frames should split (:-0.
SIPP
I check the fit of the moulding onto the frame before I install the new screen. I only trim for inside width ( good quality craft sissors Fiskars work beautifully on this fine cloth-like metal).
I then take the pre cut for width screening , not length as you will want to tension it for a good installation. I place the width wise edge at one of the shortest edge of the rectangle and tack it in place with it's labeled moulding piece.
Gently tension the screen length wise roll over the end of the frame (working on a long flat surface will help this install.) I use a length of two by four weighted with a brick(up-land) or chain if on the boat's cabin sole> If you use a stiffer gauge you might get away with a little over trim and simply pressing into the frame then trimming. Good argument for using a coarser mesh as replacement.
SIPPP
I then take the opposite piece of old moulding and gently press it into the other end and form it to the frame - DON"T cut it- tack the moulding down then cut it away. One of the quality efforts is to keep the screen cloth mesh square with the framing. The bugs dont care and usually I can't see it either.
SIPP and add Grand Mariner
Good luck
and fair winds as you open your hatches
Pam Hooper
Pamarno, Bellingham
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Jim Swallow <lagartaboat@yahoo.com>

> Hey Pam- I did all the canvas on the boat using a
> Sailrite. A machine with a longer arm would have been
> nice, but not as portable. I used mainly Sunbrella,
> with a little Seamark(Sunbrella w/ vinyl backing). I
> use Tenara(sp?) thread. I opted to use only 30 mil
> glass so I can roll the panels up easier. I like YKK
> zippers, it seems the black ones last much longer than
> the white ones. I spent about $350 to make the bimini
> and side panels. Of course my time is not worth
> anything, it's a boat...
> The push pit, poop deck, stern pulpit, or what ever
> one wishes to call it was an option from Ta Shing.
> It's great for fishing, getting in and out of the
> dinghy, a radar pole/out! board l ift, and it gives the
> first mate a few feet more to get away from the
> captain. I guess if one were to retrofit, you would
> need a new stern rail also. I wonder which would be
> less expensive, an arch or a push pit and new stern
> rail? Sorry I don't have any drawings.
> Jim
>
> Pamarno@comcast.net wrote:
>
> > Jim
> > Your pictures are wonderful. Did you do the sewing
> > if so what kind of machine, fabric, and thread was
> > used. I personally would elect the grommets, as the
> > needle perforation for installing the yyk zippers
> > weakens the cloth where it is most flexed. Here in
> > Bellingham I have seen many a beautiful enclosure
> > blown to shreds because the absent owner did not
> > leave the
> > wind a tunnel to blow through.
> > Also appreciated the reality check of living in
> &g! t; hurr icane country.
> > Your stern push-pit is interesting. Did you have it
> > fabricated, if so, would you consider providing
> > drawings or other source.
> > I plan an electronics
> > mast and this might be useful for an inaccessible
> > space.
> > Pam Hooper
> > Pamarno, 1980 Baba 30 #88
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________________
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Received on Tue Apr 3 10:29:13 2007