Dave Lewis wrote:
>
> * That is normal on the mast, they were shipped from the mfg to Ta
> Shing in 2 pieces.
>
Er, many Babas and Tashibas were rigged locally. That is, the boats
were shipped without any rigging, which was all fabricated once the boat
reached the US. For that reason, there is some variation in the masts
and rigging. A two-piece mast is not unusual. However, have someone
verify that the joint is done properly.
>
> * Look at fuel tank, if black iron chances it will need
> replacement regardless of what the owner says, I would figure
> this cost into the selling price.
>
"There are Baba owners who have replaced their tanks and those who
will". But I think the above is an over-pessimistic assessment without
seeing the boat. It could well be the fuel tank was replaced. One
quick test is to count the fuel tanks (located over the keel). The 35's
came with one long tank, running from about 2-3' abaft the mast to the
bulkhead just forward of the engine, that has to be cut apart (or the
interior has to be cut apart) to get the tank out. If you find more
than one fuel tank in the area over the keel, the job's probably been
done. Understand that an iron tank, per se, isn't a bad thing.
However, unless it's well sealed, inside and out, rust will start to
form and there's not much hope of really arresting once that happens.
Unfortunately, Ta Shing didn't do a great job of sealing the tanks
against rust so... "there are those who have...".
>
> * Check water tanks exterior and interior, look for rust deposit
> on the interior collecting in spots indicating a leak, if so
> figure a replacement here as well... change to poly tanks. Check
> water hoses for age and stiffness may need replacement.
>
Poly tanks are not always the best choice. By '84, the tanks were
stainless, anyway, so the issue is probably moot.
>
> * check water heater, water pump operation.
> * refrigerator, allow to thaw then start up and see how it operates.
> * electronics over 5 years old have no value, there is bigger and
> better on the market, don't buy into the fact it has a radar,
> depth sounder, etc., +5 years is valueless to the purchaser as
> yo may want newer and better equipment.
>
To clarify, the gear may work but don't pay a premium to the seller just
because there's a VHF, GPS, radar, or whatever on board.
>
> * original wiring is not marine grade, AC and all DC wiring should
> eventually be replace with marine grade. It may be operational,
> but it will not perform until these dated items are dealt with.
>
This is bit pessimistic, too. Ta Shing wiring works. However, 20 years
of service and just plain aging will take a toll on connections, etc.
Look for obvious problems (e,g., corrosion, chafing) and sort them out.
I've found some wiring runs (notable the service to the breaker panel)
which are, IMHO, undersized. Replacing them is obviously a good idea.
But rewire the whole boat? Only if things are in really bad shape.
>
> * have a separate diesel survey done, this will not be done by
> most marine surveyors.
>
It's your money and your comfort level. Diesels are generally amazingly
bullet-proof as long as they get clean fuel and adequate cooling. If
you have doubts, by all means have the engine checked, but lots of boats
change hands without an engine survey.
>
> * Check age of rigging, if it is original, it will need
> replacement if it has seen any use at all.
>
20 year old rigging is simply reaching (and, if the boat has spent a lot
of hard time in salt water, has reached) the end of its service life.
Standing and running rigging is, despite its cost, essentially an
expendable item. Thinking it's not isn't wise.
>
> * examine the shaft and cutlass bearing when hauled, there should
> be no lateral play.
> * Stay with the surveyor ask question, drive him nuts if you have
> to most of these guys want the boat to sell, so you may think
> they are working for you, but it seems as though they make their
> reputation on a successful survey and the eventual sale of the
> boat, I hold most of them in contempt prior to investigation.
>
Some surveyors want to be left alone, some want to conduct seminars, and
many are somewhere in between. Since it's your dime for his (or her)
time, you really are entitled to call the shots on talking about things
as they develop. Certainly, don't hire a surveyor because the firm has
a salty name or because the name was passed on by an acquaintance (I'd
be more than a little inclined to politely pass on a recommendation from
the seller or seller's broker). Ask for references and follow them up.
However, the surveyor will be paid whether boat sells or not. Their job
is to inspect the boat and report their findings to whoever hired them.
Sale or no sale, it's all the same to them.

Understand that survey results are, for the most part, subjective
assessments and that some people don't take those assessments as well as
others. This applies to checking references and to asking people about
past surveys. Don't be put off by stories beginning "you won't believe
what he said about my boat!" What some people hold to be "a boat with
character", others see as a boat needing a lot of repairs.
>
> * Check bow sprit, look closely at the light wood, termites love
> this stuff, I have never seen a surveyor detect termites or dry rot.
>
It is worth remembering that the sprit is made from laminated wood and
that problems can arise along the seams or under the butt (back end) of
the sprit, where it lays over the deck. However, detecting problems is
little more than judicious probing with the end of a knife. If the tip
goes in like a hot knife into butter, not good. If a tip goes in like a
pocket knife into balsa wood, still not good. If the tip starts in and
hits resistance almost immediately, no worries. This is something I've
learned from more than one surveyor.
[...]

In general, when I'm asked about Babas by prospective buyers, the big
"McGuffin" with these boats is the fuel tank. Other than that, the
problems that show up are not particularly unique to the boat or
design. A 20 year old system, whether it's a boat, car, or any other
piece of machinery is going to show its age. Ta Shing, in general,
overbuilt the boats (Bob Perry, the designer, has said you could trim
out a third of the hull and still have an excellent ocean boat) and that
leaves a much larger margin of safety, even with age, than many lighter
boats. There are quirks in the construction of these boats but it'd be
a tall order to find a boat where that isn't the case.

Good luck with the survey and, I hope, welcome to the community of Baba
owners!

Cheers,
Rick Emerson

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Received on Thu Jan 18 19:46:17 2007