Bruce,

Thanks,

Van...

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-baba-l@ballreich.net [mailto:owner-baba-l@ballreich.net]On
Behalf Of Bruce
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 10:03 AM
To: baba-l@ballreich.net
Subject: RE: [Baba-L] RE: [baba] Cetol, Bristol, HoneyTeak? - bump

Last year I purchased these scrapers at Jamestown Distributing. There are my
weapon of choice:
<http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=61&fami
lyName=Sandvik+%2F+Bahco+Ergo+Scrapers&history=wrkgss22%7Ctop_category%7Cpag
e%7EGRID%5EcategoryName%7EPaint%2BSupplies%5EcategoryId%7E557%40wsxx0kgv%7Co
ther%7Crefine%7E1%5Epage%7EGRID%5EcategoryName%7EScrapers%5EcategoryId%7E29>

I like the 2" scraper a lot.
I also love the 1" triangular "Bahco / Sandvik Triangle Scraper 625" with
its holster.
-Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-baba-l@ballreich.net [mailto:owner-baba-l@ballreich.net] On
Behalf Of van ford
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:47 AM
To: baba-l@ballreich.net
Subject: RE: [Baba-L] RE: [baba] Cetol, Bristol, HoneyTeak? - bump

Rick,

Any suggestions where to locate the "1 inch" blade you are talking about?

Van...

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-baba-l@ballreich.net [mailto:owner-baba-l@ballreich.net]On
Behalf Of Richard B. Emerson
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:10 AM
To: baba-l@ballreich.net
Subject: Re: [Baba-L] RE: [baba] Cetol, Bristol, HoneyTeak? - bump

Finish comments:

Cetol: it's a surface coating (Sikkens describes it as "a high solids alkyd
resin") and, in fact, one problem with Cetol is it comes off a little too
easily. That is, chafe will remove it faster than it'll remove varnish.
Doing routine maintenance, 150 sandpaper will take the coating back to a
point where a new set of coats can be added without a lot of build up. It
took me a while to wake up to the fact that the coating *should* be
periodically taken down. Last year, when I did a full scale clean up, all I
needed was a 1" scraper and some 150.
There's a lot of teak on Babas and the job took a while for that reason, not
because Cetol won't come up. Suggesting otherwise is simply incorrect.

An up side to Cetol is it's extremely easy to apply. Although applying it
on hot wood (baked in the sun) isn't a great idea (the carrier evaporates
too quickly), it can be done. It's not bothered by humidity. Not only
isn't relative humidity not an issue, it can be rained on while still wet
and survive intact. While applying Cetol, as the last strokes went on, I
was caught in a rain shower. I spead a cover over the work in hopes in
minimizing the damage. Afterwards, expecting total disaster, all I did was
wipe up some deposits where water had beaded and sand off some fuzz left by
the cover (oops!).
There was no other damage.

On the matter of appearance: some people like cats, some people like dogs.
Some people like varnish, some people like Cetol. IMNSHO, discussing boat
finish as if it were a religious conviction is, at best, silly.

Bristol finish: a dock neighbor spent much of one season taking down all the
teak on his Tashiba and recoating with Bristol, only to see it fail along
various joints and splices (e.g., on the cap rail). Worse, the stuff was
extremely hard to get off so it could be properly patched, to say nothing of
being able to clean up the discolored, from the moisture, wood. Tack on the
cost of this stuff and... nice idea but...
I've encountered stories of people who varnished their brightwork to a
gleaming finish and then coated it with epoxy. Works well right up to the
first crack in the epoxy. Bristol finish strikes me as going almost the
same route.

Scraping: Several years ago, we hauled out to start cleaning up OWTW's teak
and I had the clever idea to attack the wood with a 2". Hey, bigger is
better, right? A professional refinisher, working on the boat next to us,
took pity on me and gave me a quick seminar on scraping.
Now I use a 1" scraper and keep a file handy as I work. A sharp (we're
talking s-h-a-r-p!) 1" blade, tuned up every 5-10 minutes, will go through
most finishes at an amazing rate. Essentially, the sharp blade gets into
the finish and the small blade concentrates your weight and pressure on a
smaller area, again cutting through the finish instead of just wearing it
down. A little care is needed to avoid digging into the wood; the blade
will act like a wood plane or draw knife if you're not careful.

Cheers,
   Rick

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