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RE: head plumbing

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RE: head plumbing

From: Richard Cassano <rcassano_at_optonline.net>
Date: Wed Jan 04 2006 - 07:47:03 PST

When I rebuilt the head system on Gray Eagle, (Tashiba 40) I followed
Peggie's recommendations as close as possible considering the tight
installation conditions. I was unable and unwilling, at the time, to pull
apart the beautiful teak trim hiding the holding tank vent line discharge in
the cabin top side. Therefore, my 3/4" diameter vent hose makes a transition
down to the original 1/2" a few feet from the exit fitting. At some point I
will get up the nerve to drill out the bungs and install a 3/4" fitting if
it will fit under the wood trim.

Five years ago when I did this job I purchased the 1 1/2" Sealand Odor-Safe
hose. This stuff was so difficult to work with because it is hard to bend
that I abandon using it and installed Trident hose. Much of the 1 1/2" hose
run is in rigid PVC pipe with Sealand "PVC pipe to hose" connectors at each
end to isolate the rigid PVC from vibration. So far, this has been very
reliable - more so than the Trident hose. The Trident hose is just beginning
to permeate an odor and should be changed out. The rigid PVC pipe will never
permeate even if effluent is left in the line and if the pipe is isolated
should never fracture. The pipe to hose fittings I mention above made by
Sealand are wonderful as they offer plenty of room for two hose clamps.
Nigel Calder recommends the use of "rigid" PVC pipe runs for MSD systems
(P.535) "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual, 3rd Ed" and from
experience I agree. (Note: there is a distinction between "Rigid PVC pipe
and flexible PVC hose)

The head I installed is the Groco KH model. This is a house size porcelain
bowl of very fine quality. From my experience they are very difficult to
rebuild properly in that there are modifications needed to replacement parts
that are not explained in the instructions. One brass plate must be filed
down and test assembled repeatedly until the intake water does not leak into
the bowl when the flush is over. In five years I have rebuilt the head three
times and only after a long conversation with a guy at Groco did I find out
about this "secret" alteration and got it right. I believe the frequent
rebuilds were a result of winterizing with products that did not fully
protect the delicate rubber parts and damaged them. So, I can't blame Groco
for the frequent rebuilds, but I do wish they would build to a finer
tolerance and make the expensive rebuild kits a plug and play affair and not
trial and error, file and test.

After the Groco KH head was installed I found it very difficult to get the
intake water into the bowl. As the Groco installation diagram showed I
installed a vented loop in the intake hose located amidships and above the
healed waterline. As I discovered the head pump was unable to pull water
because the vented loop allowed it to suck air. To get things working again
I kept the intake hose well above the waterline but removed the vented loop
and all worked wonderful. Now, I know this does not meet code but I was
unable to figure out how to comply with the vented loop requirement and get
the head pump to pull in flushing water and not air. As standard procedure
aboard GE, we close all thru-hull valves whenever we leave the boat. This
way I can enjoy my stay ashore without worrying about the boat and water
flooding in through the head intake.

One more comment about the Groco KH. Because the Baba 40 mounts the head on
a raised platform and the KH head is a tall one you had better be a tall,
long-legged sailor or have substantial hand holds in place for the users.
Otherwise, using this head will bring back memories of your youthful days
when you could swing your legs while sitting on the john.

Richard Cassano
S/V Gray Eagle, Tashiba 40



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Received on Wed Jan 04 07:50:08 2006

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