Floor joist is adjustable, but I have never adjusted since installation. All
motion in the deck has been removed... there are 4 X of these stainless
steel jacking screws custom fabricated that lift a stainless steel "L" frame
that is bolted to the wood streamers. I used kiln dried popular for streamer
(joist) replacements where needed, this is great wood available at Home
Depot. There is only a couple of inches of room between the top of the tank
and the interior deck cross members, just enough to run the fuel lines. If
additional bilge access is required then additional deck hatches need to be
cut.

I am having problems finding the excel file that had all the tank
dimensions... I will continue to look.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Shane Wilson [mailto:vermeerasia@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 8:05 AM
To: baba-l@ballreich.net
Subject: RE: [Baba-L] Baba 40 Diesel Tank Baffles

Hi Dave,

Nice pics, thanks, and a very neat job. Without going to too much trouble,
do you know the approximate dimensions of your bilge area, i.e. how deep aft

versus depth at the step? I've seen that different Babas have significantly

different bilge depths and I'd be curious to hear how much space you started

with. Also, how many inches do you have between the joist bottoms and the
tank tops?

Finally, I really like the adjustable floor supports you have -- are these
custom made?

Thanks

Shane Wilson
SV Muse - Panda 40
Port Townsend, WA


>From: <dave@mybajaspot.com>
>Reply-To: baba-l@ballreich.net
>To: <baba-l@ballreich.net>
>Subject: RE: [Baba-L] Baba 40 Diesel Tank Baffles
>Date: Thu, 8 Dec 2005 07:15:54 -0800
>
>Hi to all,
>
>I did this tank thing differently too. There is more value in having your
>fuel in smaller tanks then there is in one of two large tanks. I have
>installed 4 aluminum tanks with baffles that meet USCG specs and top off
>with 136 gallons in the bilge. I do not hook the tanks directly to each
>other, instead all tanks supply/return lines run to a manifold that also
>feed the main engine, gen set, and fuel polishing system. The engine does
>not have to be removed to install this system and it also allows full bilge
>access for replacement of wire runs and plumbing. All water hoses were
>removed and replaced with PEK plastic plumbing, wire runs and plumbing runs
>were separated, hot water is red, and fresh water is blue. Entire bilge
>area
>was sanded smooth and painted.
>
>I will send photos in separate message.
>
>Dave Lewis
>S/V Bella
>Ensenada, BC, Mexico
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: tom16@wavecable.com [mailto:tom16@wavecable.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 10:22 PM
>To: baba-l@ballreich.net
>Subject: Re: [Baba-L] Baba 40 Diesel Tank Baffles
>
>Rich,
>
>We removed our tank, as described by you--with only two
>baffles, buy cutting it out in pieces. (we were than able
>to scoop out about 30 pounds of rusted metal flaked off
>the tank lying in the bilge beneath) This allowed for no
>cutting of cabinetry except floor timbers which were
>replaced with better than original. We then built two
>aluminum tanks installed, connected together by a 2 1/2"
>hose between two 90 degree aluminun els welded to the
>bottom of the facing ends of the each. Both tanks were
>inserted from the engine space with the engine
>removed--since I was changing the engine at the same time.
>The job was fairly simple and very resonably priced. But
>it means removing your engine. And this approach might
>even be prudent if you don't plan to change the engine. It
>isn't too difficult to remove, especially when you
>consider joinerwork on teak to do. Also, with everything
>removed from the bilges all the way aft, I was able to get
>in there with a grinder and smooth all the rough edges and
>give the entire bilge a good paint coating and replace all
>the hose/wire runs otherwise inaccesable.
>
>Tom MOONSHADOW
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
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Received on Thu Dec 08 09:12:15 2005