At 11:03 AM 7/14/2005, Rick wrote:
>Obviously, I agree with much Mike says. I'd look at those clogged
>arteries, though, and maybe bite the bullet to have the engine cooling
>passages cleaned out. ... too much heat in specific areas could lead to
>warping and that's ...

Mike
As usual Rick's right on target here.....First place to look is the Heat
exchanger. Our MD11c shows the same heat signature as yours. Except we
don't have to go to La Paz to get warmer water....the bay gets up to 78
degrees in the summer and our Temp gauge follows that as well. If I have a
low battery or two that needs a big time charge I'll see the temp meter
creeping up. (Balmar 105 amp alternator)

We pulled the fresh water heat exchanger (Sencor) and did an acid bath
clean up on it and it got us back in the ball park. Its a real easy job to
pull it and open it up. Also check the impellers..they tend to get lazy
before they fail.

One thing I'd like to mention on this thread is what Rick said about
warping. I think that is more of a problem in the aluminium block
Yanmars.....let them overheat just once and it's all over. The MD11C's `as
you know are massive heavy block metal. Not very easy to warp .
Also, you can easily remove the individual cylinders and resleeve them and
bingo like a new engine.

Ours is over 25 yrs old, been overhauled twice and just keeps on
ticking...loudly..but still tickin'

Now if I could just figure out how to keep the seals between the Salt and
Fresh water stages of the water pump from letting the freshwater out I'd be
a happy puppy. It seems that the antifreeze coolant degrades the seal
between the two pump stages and
when the boat is at rest it lets some (not all ) of the freshwater pass out
through the Salt water side. Once the engine is running and up to temp it
stops. Seal lasts 1 yr then here come the Capt'n with the water cup.

Al Emer
S/V Galatea
Baba 30
Sandy Hook NJ


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Received on Fri Jul 15 08:25:10 2005