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dave # mybajaspot.com wrote:
>
> 1. They do not evacuate when pumped to sea with the macerator. One might ask
> why? Well the fill line may be common with the pump out line or it may be
> separate, but whatever the case it is not located on the bottom of the tank;
> therefore, it is impossible to pump it dry.
Yes, this is exactly the issue that prompted our installation of a
pickup tube. Our "pickup tube" is actually a 2.5" ID white PVC (schedule
2) elbow made for home plumbing. This is epoxied over the pumpout hole
(which exits from the side of the standard Baba 30 tank). The other end
was trimmed slightly so that the opening is 3/4" above the bottom of the
tank. (As low as possible without clogging.) Having the pumpout fitting
on the bottom of the tank will allow you to empty the tank, but will not
allow you to completely empty the hose. Hoses are a MUCH bigger source
of odor than tanks.
Why not just replace the tank? The pickup tube project was cheap (about
$5) and a lot less effort. We *are* thinking about replacing the tank,
but if this works it should move that expense to the bottom of the list.
>
> 2. How can one pump the tank dry or at least void of waste even if the
> discharge line is located on the bottom as it may not pump clear and leave
> some waste behind. Has anyone considered plumbing sea water fitting to the
> holding tank so it can be filled with sea and pumped dry and clear out all
> waste? I have and my new tank will incorporate this improvement.
We do this with our head during the pumpout process. After pumping the
tank, we flush 4 or 5 gallons of sea water and then pump again. However,
with the height of the "standard" Baba holding tank pumpout hole there's
no way you can pump it clean. There's just too much waste below the
level that can be pumped. We couldn't even do it at the pumpout dock
with a water hose. (See #1 above.) Again, if your pumpout fitting is on
the bottom, you will always have liquid in it and *some* of that liquid
will be waste. Eventually it waste odor will permeate the hose. The only
way to avoid this is to try to set up a system where black water never
sits in the hoses. In our system, it flows back into the holding tank.
Yes, there's always some waste in the tank, but it can't permeate and we
can deal with it using a proper tank treatment.
>
> 3. Hoses smell with age. Why not plumb the toilet to tank in hard plastic
> pipe, I have considered this and will investigate if this becomes a problem
> as after new hoses begin to smell. However, I keep the lines well flushed
> and free of waste.
Hard PVC pipes will work and won't smell. However, you shouldn't have a
rigid plumbing system on a boat. It will quickly break and then you'll
have real problems. If you use flexible hose for all your connections,
it should work fine. We've never done this, but I know people who have.
On Mandisa, the hose runs are so short that I don't think it would be
practical to use PVC. We use the white "trident" hose. The original
"Sealand" hose (now marketed under a different name) is supposed to be
much better, but you have to order it from Australia or someplace like that.
>
> 4. The use of ozone to the tank will reduce all odor and vent through the
> tank vent. I am experimenting with an ozone generator to reduce and/or
> remove all shipboard odors. Not that I have a problem currently, but I feel
> strongly that this will resolve any problem down the road with odors
> emanating from a holding tank.
Ozone reduces odors through oxidation. It also oxidizes other things:
your hoses, your head seals and valves, plastic fittings, your lungs...
Ozone is a principle component in smog. It also only deal with the odors
- not the anaerobic bacteria that cause them. A better solution for us
has been OdorLos holding tank treatment once a week. It has aerobic
bacteria which eats the "food" in the black water and an oxidant which
keeps them happy in the Baba holding tank while creating an environment
that the anaerobic bacteria can't live in. We also regularly flush the
whole system with fresh water by removing the intake hose from the raw
water through-hull and sticking it in a big bucket of clean fresh water.
>
> 5. The answer for me is to have a custom tank fabricated that will provide
> the fittings I need to make this system work as outlined above. The fill
> line will enter at the top, the discharge at the bottom, sea water flush at
> the top, inspection plate with level sensor, and a nipple and check valve
> for ozone discharge to the tank.
>
I hope I don't sound like a "know-it-all". My husband says I'm
obsessive. I sure wish you the best of luck with your projects. A clean
smelling boat is a lot more fun to be in.
Cindy
--
Cindy Ballreich
S/V Mandisa
Baba 30 #218
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Received on Fri Jun 24 09:10:49 2005
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